Dart frogs cannot eat larger food items, especially at their earlier points in development but this is true even in adulthood. They will be eating fruit flies, springtails, flour beetle larvae, bean beetles, pinhead crickets (I don't like these as a feeder), and some isopods even as adults. You can offer occasional 1-2 day old dubia nymphs to some adult frogs depending on size but this shouldn't be a staple.
Don't purchase thinking you will be able to go to petco/petsmart and get crickets for these frogs please!
Frogs are to be kept at room temperature, temperatures at or over 85 for too long will be FATAL.
Humidity needs to be maintained at all times for the frogs to thrive, if humidity gets low they will hide. If humidity stays low too long they will become dehydrated and may not eat which will be fatal. Suggested humidity is 80% but beware hydrometers are often wrong, it is often better to go off of visual cues after you get a feel for it.
I feed all of my frogs either once a day or every other day depending on my schedule. All feeders are dusted with a rotation of Repashy Calcium Plus, Dendrocare, Repashy SuperVite, and once a MONTHRepashy Vitamin A. (Overdoing vitamin A can be fatal but under supplementing can lead to their tongues not working and resulting in starvation).
I setup froglets into smaller grow out setups and transfer into their vivariums when they are a proper size. Temporary rearing setup. How to take care of froglets. Placing froglets straight into a large planted tank will make it harder for them to locate food and has higher fatality rates.